The Meilang Twin Pagodas

The Meilang Twin Pagodas

The Meilang Twin Pagodas are a National Key Cultural Relics Protection Unit.

The Meilang Twin Pagodas are ancient pagodas from the Yuan Dynasty, commonly referred to as the "Sister Pagodas." They are situated southeast of Meilang Village, Meiting Township, Chengmai County, Hainan Province. According to the *Zhengde Qiongtai Annals*, a man named Chen Daoxu from the Yuan Dynasty had two daughters: the elder married, and the younger became a Buddhist nun. To honor them, he constructed these pagodas. The pagodas stand 17 meters tall; one has a hexagonal floor plan and currently consists of six stories, built in imitation of wooden architecture.

Each level features a cornice connected to a balcony. From the first to the third levels, there are twelve pillars under each cornice, supported by bracket sets. Starting from the fourth level, each level only shows semi-circular engaged columns along the outer walls. The niches have no Buddha statues, and the sumeru pedestals are carved with a central seated figure wearing a crown. The other pagoda has a square floor plan, divided into seven levels. Its external structure resembles the other pagoda but is more refined. Each level’s outer wall niches contain Buddha statues in various poses. The upper edge of the sumeru pedestal is decorated with continuous lotus petal patterns, and the four sides are carved with reliefs of auspicious animals and Buddhist motifs such as elephants, lions, xiezhi (mythical beasts), tigers, horses, and qilin. The four corners are adorned with lively carvings of strength figures supporting the structure. The finial is composed of a disk of lotus petals atop a precious gem. The two pagodas are 20 meters apart and both stand on tall bases located within a mountain pool. The base surfaces are surrounded by railings and steps.

The overall design of the Meilang Twin Pagodas is harmonious, aesthetically pleasing, and varied. The intricate carvings showcase exceptional craftsmanship, making them true artistic treasures among Hainan's stone pagodas. Surrounded by lush woods and bamboo, with the sound of babbling streams, the tranquil environment makes visitors feel as though they have entered a pure land, offering a strong sense of returning to nature.

The Meilang Twin Pagodas are among the few surviving ancient pagodas in Hainan. They not only provide direct insights into the development of ancient Hainanese civilization and architectural art but also hold considerable value as tourist attractions.

History and Structure

The Meilang Twin Pagodas, also known as the “Sister Pagodas,” were built in the early Yuan Dynasty as Buddhist relic stone pagodas. Originally positioned in front of Jirui Nunnery, the nunnery no longer exists, but the pagodas remain. They are over 800 years old. Why are they called the “Sister Pagodas”? The *Zhengde Qiongtai Annals* from the Ming Dynasty states: “A local man from the Yuan Dynasty, Chen Daoxu, had two daughters. The elder, Lingzhao, married into a common family, while the younger, Shanchang, became a nun and lived in a nunnery. Daoxu donated 1,000 strings of cash to build these pagodas, which are over five zhang tall, with seven-tiered eaves. One pagoda is hexagonal, and the other is square. The stonework is exquisitely crafted.” It also notes: “Jirui Nunnery is located forty li south of the county in Wangjiadu, built during the Yuan Dynasty. Local man Chen Daoxu donated land to the nunnery where his younger daughter, the nun Shanchang, resided. The Pacification Commissioner Xie Tunan inscribed its name. The Meilang Twin Pagodas are situated in the deep fields on either side in front of Jirui Nunnery.” From this, we learn that Chen Daoxu, a wealthy and well-off local gentry, donated “1,000 strings of cash” to build twin stone pagodas in memory of his elder daughter Lingzhao, who married a commoner, and his younger daughter Shanchang, who became a nun. Additionally, he donated land to the nunnery where his younger daughter became a nun. This act fully reflects the deep paternal love of an affectionate father. To this day, the Sister Pagodas stand elegantly side by side.

There is also a folk legend about the two sisters: the elder sister Lingzhao and the younger Shanchang owned a coconut “treasure bowl” that always had endless rice and gold and silver. They often took rice and valuables from the bowl to distribute to poor neighbors. The twin pagodas were built in memory of their Buddhist devotion.

Structural Overview

The Elder Sister Pagoda is hexagonal, facing southeast and northwest. Originally seven stories, it now has six, standing 17 meters tall. The body is built in imitation of wooden architecture with a hollow interior corridor-style structure. The top features a precious gem finial. Each level’s cornice extends outward with elegant upturns. The bottom three levels have twelve pillars and bracket sets supporting the beams. From the fourth level onward, semi-circular engaged columns appear along the outer walls. The niches are empty of Buddha statues, and the central sumeru pedestal is carved with a finely crafted, beautifully shaped seated figure wearing a crown.

The Younger Sister Pagoda is square-shaped, facing northeast and southwest. It has seven levels and stands 13 meters tall. Its structure is similar to the Elder Sister Pagoda—imitating a single-wall hollow pavilion-style building—but it is more delicate and graceful. Each level features carved Buddha statues inside niches and along the outer walls. The sumeru pedestal is adorned with exquisite reliefs, including auspicious animal designs such as tigers, horses, lions, elephants, and qilin, as well as Buddhist lotus petal motifs. The four corner pillars feature vivid carvings of strength figures supporting the structure with their heads and hands. The inner chamber houses statues of Shakyamuni and Amitabha, along with numerous Buddhist statues and decorative patterns. The left and right niches on the pagoda body contain Six Yaksha Guardians, and four coiled dragon stone pillars stand at the four corners. The first and second levels have corridors. The finial consists of a lotus base supporting seven layers of disks and a precious gem at the top.

The two pagodas are 20 meters apart and sit on bases surrounded by stone pillars and railings in a pool. Each base has a terrace in front, connected to the outside of the pool by curved arched bridge-like stone steps. Lush bamboo clusters, spring-fed pools, and serene gardens create the feeling of stepping into a pure land. Legend says the elder sister later returned to secular life and married, so her pagoda features statues of civil and military figures. In contrast, the younger sister devoted her life to Buddhism, so her pagoda is adorned entirely with Buddhist figures.

Stylistic Design

The Meilang Twin Pagodas feature a harmonious and classic design, embodying primitive simplicity. Their most outstanding feature is the exquisite stone carving artistry—refined craftsmanship and graceful forms. Dozens of relief carvings are exquisitely detailed, with fluttering drapery and lifelike figures that reflect the social life of the late Song and early Yuan periods. They are considered outstanding artistic masterpieces among Hainan’s stone pagodas. Notably, the entire pagoda structure is built using basalt from the volcanic region of northern Hainan. The construction technique involves interlocking joints and stacking dry stone slabs without mortar—an exceptional and unique method. Despite over 800 years of weathering and erosion, which have caused varying degrees of surface damage, the main structures remain intact—an extremely rare phenomenon in China.

Beneath a large banyan tree next to the pagodas stands a round-headed, turtle-shaped basalt stele. Originally inscribed with nearly a thousand characters in intaglio, the text has been completely eroded by 800 years of wind and rain, rendering it unreadable—a true “wordless stele” that silently leaves behind a sense of mystery. The Ming Dynasty scholar and imperial examination graduate Tang Juan once wrote a nostalgic poem in praise: “Originally from the Western Heaven, the relics now stand majestic on Hainan Island. Faintly reminiscent of the era when the Han dynasties vied for supremacy, it seems as if the twin beauties stood side by side in those years.” This adds a romantic and mysterious veil to the already enchanting Meilang Twin Pagodas.

Legends and Art

The beautiful legends and the artistic style of the stone pagodas reflect the timeless emotions of the people of Hainan. The Meilang Twin Pagodas are truly treasured relics among China’s ancient pagodas. In 1996, they were designated by the State Council as part of the “Fourth Batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units.” They not only offer direct insights into the development of ancient Hainanese civilization and architectural art but also hold significant value as tourist attractions.

Annotation Notes

A *qian* (string or unit) was a currency and taxation unit, equivalent to 1,000 coins or one string. It originated from the “Suanqian” (calculated tax) system during Emperor Wu of Han’s reign. Due to years of war, the Western Han treasury was depleted, yet wealthy merchants refused to contribute funds to aid the nation. In 119 BCE, the “Suanqian Decree” was issued, imposing vehicle, boat, and property taxes on merchants, artisans, and craftsmen. The policy was abolished in 110 BCE.

Transportation Tips

Take a long-distance bus from Haikou to Chengmai County, then transfer to a motorcycle to reach the site.

Jinjiang Town: Located in the central part of Chengmai County, Jinjiang Town was formed in July 2002 through the merger of the former Jinjiang Town, Changan Town, Taiping Township, Meiting Township, and Shankou Township. The town is divided into six administrative districts, encompassing 55 village (residential) committees (44 villages and 11 residential committees), 223 natural villages, with a total population of 170,980 (including residents of county government agencies and enterprises). It serves as the political, cultural, transportation, commercial, and logistics hub of Chengmai County. The town enjoys a tropical climate with spring-like weather year-round, abundant rainfall, and ample sunshine. The average annual temperature is 23.7°C, and the annual sunshine duration is 2060.5... More details about Jinjiang Town++

Further Reading:

· Fourth Batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units