Huma Riverside Park

Huma Riverside Park

Situated on the eastern side of Huma Town and facing Russia across the river, it spans 10 hectares. As the largest comprehensive park in the town and one of the hallmark sights of this historic settlement, it is a must-see for all visitors. What was once a patch of riverside greenery has been transformed through careful government design and renovation into an ideal spot for leisure, vacationing, and admiring the stunning border river scenery. Just a few miles from the town center, the park is easily accessible on foot. Heading east from the center, several streets lead directly to the riverbank. No matter which route you take, the first thing visitors cross is a sturdy, permanently built white concrete embankment—wide, tall, and resembling a long, slumbering white dragon lying along the Heilongjiang River, as if guarding the century-old town.

The Riverside Park is not only a scenic attraction for out-of-town visitors but also a fantastic place for locals to relax and exercise. On summer mornings, the riverbanks are dotted with elderly people practicing tai chi and youths jogging. Beneath the dense trees and on benches by the river, diligent students can often be seen, their voices raised in rhythmic reading. By evening, the park becomes bustling with visitors. Thanks to the cooling effect of the river, the area offers a refreshing escape from the heat. Elders dance to music in the open-air pavilion, while groups of young people gather around barbecue stalls to enjoy skewers and grilled river fish. Fishing enthusiasts cast their lines quietly along the bank, and the splashes of hooked fish draw bursts of laughter from children. Only late at night does the park return to tranquility, the gentle flow of the river standing out vividly against the silence.

The picturesque border river winds like a majestic dragon, its cheerful currents flowing freely like an unrestrained maiden. Passing through Huma County’s Oupu and Jinshan townships, it flows into the century-old town of Huma.

Huma Town, the seat of Huma County Government, is also the oldest historic town in the Greater Khingan Mountains. Named after the Huma River that runs through it, it was historically a renowned post station along the Heilongjiang River. Historical records indicate that it was established as one of the ancient courier stations in the 22nd year of the Kangxi reign during the Qing Dynasty (1683), originally called the Ancient Station. A major historical trade route once passed through here. On this fertile land, the people of Huma Town have written heroic chapters resisting Russian invasion; amidst these white mountains and black waters, brave soldiers of the Anti-Japanese United Army left behind footprints of their desperate struggle against Japanese invaders. It is fair to say that Huma Town is one of the few towns in the Greater Khingan Mountains with a history spanning over a century.

Covering an area of 2,443 square kilometers, Huma Town has a population of less than 30,000, making it sparsely populated. Yet it boasts breathtaking scenery, abundant resources, and a rich cultural heritage, particularly its centuries-old traditions that have preserved the unique charm of northern Chinese ethnicities. Located in the cold high-latitude region of the Greater Khingan Mountains, the town experiences a frigid temperate continental monsoon climate—with long, harsh winters and short, intense summers. Without a railway connection and situated a thousand miles from provincial capital Harbin, nestled within the Greater Khingan mountain range, these unique natural conditions have made it one of China’s rare pristine, unpolluted havens, maintaining a rare tranquility away from urban hustle. In recent years, as domestic tourism has flourished and people’s desire to return to simplicity, embrace nature, and seek green ecological environments has grown, Huma Town’s captivating border river, unique snowy landscapes, pristine forests, wild berries and medicinal plants, and the mysterious charm of its ethnic minorities have become increasingly well-known and coveted. The town now welcomes more and more domestic and international tourists, establishing itself as an important tourist destination in the Greater Khingan Mountains. With the county’s economic and social development, proactive government policies to attract investment, exploration and development of rich mineral resources, and the construction of green ecological agricultural bases, Huma County has become a hotspot for business opportunities. As the county seat, the century-old town of Huma has regained vibrant energy. If the beautiful and bountiful Huma County is hailed as the “Green Gem on the Golden Rooster’s Crest,” then the century-old town of Huma is the most dazzling highlight of that gem. Like an ancient golden road shrouded in mystery, or an untouched frontier brimming with curiosity, it beckons visitors to uncover its secrets and witness its enchanting beauty.

Speaking of Huma Town’s stunning natural landscapes, one cannot overlook the riverside park built along the Heilongjiang River. Located on the eastern side of the town and facing Russia across the water, it spans 10 hectares, making it the largest comprehensive park in the area and one of the symbolic sights of the century-old town—a must-visit for every tourist. Once a simple green space along the riverbank, it has been transformed through government design and restoration into a prime spot for leisure and enjoying the border river’s beauty. Just a few miles from the town center, it’s easily walkable. Traveling eastward from the center, several streets lead directly to the river. No matter the route, visitors must first cross a wide, towering white concrete embankment, resembling a long, reclining white dragon along the Heilongjiang River—like a loyal guardian of the historic town. Decades ago, the Heilongjiang River was far less docile than it is today. Each spring, when the ice began to thaw, the upstream ice would often melt before the downstream sections, a phenomenon known as “reversed ice break.” During such events, massive ice floes from upstream would be carried downstream, accumulating against the solid ice downstream and forming dams that blocked the river’s flow, causing floods. Autumn rains also frequently led to overflowing. Back then, the Heilongjiang River was like a mischievous dragon, constantly threatening the safety of the century-old town. The original earthen embankments were much lower and narrower than they are now. In the spring of 1985, a reversed ice break on the upper Heilongjiang led to unprecedented flooding in Huma Town. The water surged over the riverbed, reaching the embankment and nearly matching its height for nearly a week. The earthen structure, soaked for days, teetered on the brink of collapse, putting the ancient town in grave danger. Perhaps the playful dragon of the Heilongjiang River ultimately couldn’t bear to destroy this beautiful town—the waters miraculously receded, and the town was spared. After the flood, drawing lessons from the disaster, the county government mobilized resources to construct this concrete embankment. Now, it serves not only as a solid shield for the historic town but also as a scenic landmark. From above, the black river water and white embankment resemble two dragons coiled along the town’s eastern edge. As the saying goes, “A mountain need not be high to be famous if it is home to an immortal; a river need not be deep to be spiritual if it hosts a dragon.” It’s no wonder this century-old town, flanked by two dragons, is a land of prosperity and natural bounty.

Beyond the embankment lies a windbreak belt about fifty to sixty meters wide, formed by poplar trees. Like a green screen beside the white dragon, these trees stand tall and dense on the embankment’s eastern side. In midsummer, their lush foliage blocks the view from the river—if you’re on the Heilongjiang, you can’t see into the town due to this green barrier. To occasional Russian boaters passing by, the town appears as a shy maiden veiled in green, her features hidden.

As visitors stroll through this poplar belt, the magnificent Heilongjiang River emerges like a glowing jade ribbon, gradually coming into view as you approach the shore. Up close, the winding waters, docked boats, children playing in the water, women washing clothes, and the distant mountains of Russia with nearby low woodlands all unfold before your eyes. Here, seeing the river firsthand, you’ll truly understand why it was called the “Black Water” in ancient times. The entire river appears black, and even standing onshore, it’s hard to see the riverbed just a couple of meters down—but don’t mistake it for a polluted river. It’s the world’s only major border river untouched by industrial pollution. Scoop up a handful of water, and you’ll find it crystal clear. Children playing in the river often drink from it, and fishermen consider stewing freshly caught fish in the river water without any seasonings a delicacy.

The Riverside Park stretches along the river section flowing past the town, extending over 1,000 meters from north to south. This stretch of riverbank is built with stone blocks, whereas before 1963, it was not. Due to Huma Town’s location at a bend in the Heilongjiang shipping channel—where the river current strikes directly—the embankment faced severe erosion. From the founding of the People’s Republic until 1963, over 4.8 hectares of land had been washed away. Since the Sino-Soviet border at the time followed the main channel of the Heilongjiang, such erosion meant a loss of national territory. To protect this sacred land, in 1963, the national government allocated funds, and the Huma County Government organized the construction of this reinforced riverbank.

Along the riverbank, vessels of various sizes are moored, with the most eye-catching being several military ships—including larger gunboats and neatly arranged patrol boats—evoking a sense of border solemnity and adding a majestic touch to the picturesque scenery. The most prominent structure on the bank is the China-Russia Border Marker No. 173, erected in the spring of 1993. After multiple meetings, negotiations, on-site surveys, and approvals by both governments, the border alignment was finalized, and a permanent boundary marker was established. Technical teams from both countries’ foreign ministries oversaw the installation, with corresponding markers placed on each side. Along Huma County’s 371-kilometer border, 21 such markers were installed, including this one. The establishment of the Sino-Russian border and its markers has laid a solid foundation for stability and economic development in the border regions, symbolizing the strategic partnership of the new era and demonstrating both governments’ commitment to peace, development, and neighborly relations. Standing over two meters tall with a cement base, Marker No. 173 bears the solemn emblem of the People’s Republic of China, the Chinese characters for “China,” the marker number, and the year of installation. It has become a major attraction in the Riverside Park. Visitors eagerly take photos here, and capturing themselves alongside the solemn marker, the beautiful river, and the Russian mountains makes for an unforgettable memento of traveling to China’s northernmost frontier. In summer, if you rise early to photograph the sunrise, don’t miss shooting from the direction of the marker. As the sun rises behind the Russian mountains, its orange glow reflects on the rippling river, casting a soft radiance on the tranquil waters. The riverbank and park trees are bathed in dawn’s light, draped in a faint orange veil. The sunlight reddens the marker, enhancing its majesty. Looking east from the marker, the Russian mountains, the rising sun, the shimmering river, and the solemn marker form a stunning painting. You’ll be moved by the perfect harmony of movement and stillness, the brilliant colors, and the unity of the scene. Watching the sunrise here fills you with pride in your country’s majestic landscapes. Just as viewing the flag-raising ceremony at Tiananmen Square stirs deep patriotism, witnessing the sunrise at this border marker evokes an equally profound sense of national pride—an experience even more poignant for those from inland areas.

The Riverside Park is not only a comprehensive recreational area but also home to several noteworthy sites. On the riverbank stands an elegant two-story building—the Huma Port Joint Inspection Building. Approved by the State Council in May 1993 as a national Class I passenger and cargo port, it was recognized by both governments in January 1994 as an international transport hub, facing Russia’s Ushakovo Port in Amur Region’s Shimanovsky District across the Heilongjiang River, just 19 kilometers apart. Its annual cargo throughput capacity reaches 200,000 tons. In addition to operating during open-water seasons, the port also facilitates ice-road vehicle transport in winter. The inspection building was completed in late 2005, covering 2,200 square meters with a total investment of 3.5 million yuan. The port’s opening will significantly boost the century-old town’s economy, transforming it from a secluded settlement into a window to the outside world, showcasing its charm to the globe.

Another must-visit spot along the riverbank is the border outpost—a small cement-and-brick tower about forty meters tall, shaped like a pagoda with an internal staircase. Ascending to the top, you reach the soldiers’ observation room, equipped with high-powered military binoculars. Through them, the distinct scenery of Russia comes into view. Directly opposite, the Russian border also has a watchtower, though its design, materials, and appearance differ markedly from ours. Under the binoculars, Russian sentries are clearly visible, bringing the neighboring country uncannily close. Standing atop the tower, gazing at the foreign land just across the river, you may feel an urge to “point at the landscape and compose poetry.” It also brings reflections on the extraordinary history between China and the former Soviet Union. Today, times have changed—the former superpower no longer exists, and the once-tense relationship has given way to friendly cooperation. Our motherland grows stronger and more prosperous, while the winding river remains a silent witness to these transformations.

Gazing at the ceaseless flow of the river and reflecting on the passage of history, you’ll deeply grasp the meaning of the phrase, “Thus flows what once was.” Time is the most relentless force of change—just like the Heilongjiang’s unceasing current, or the eternal mountains on either shore.

As the saying goes, “The barracks are made of iron, but the soldiers are like flowing water.” The border outpost has seen countless young soldiers come and go, their youth and dedication safeguarding the nation’s northern frontier and this beautiful century-old town, much like the quietly flowing river.

The Riverside Park is not only a scenic attraction for tourists but also a cherished spot for locals to unwind. On summer mornings, the riverbanks are alive with elderly tai chi practitioners and jogging youths. Beneath the trees and on benches, diligent students can be spotted reading aloud. By evening, the park throngs with visitors. The cool river breeze makes it an ideal retreat from the heat. Elders dance in the open-air pavilion, while groups of young people gather around barbecue stalls for skewers and grilled fish. Anglers cast their lines quietly, and children’s laughter rings out as hooked fish splash. Only late at night does the park return to silence, the river’s flow sounding crisp and distant in the stillness.

The picturesque Riverside Park, much like the century-old town itself, is beautiful and refined. Perhaps you’ve visited Dalian’s Donghai Park, a vast seaside and mountain-side park where you can marvel at the ocean’s vastness and human craftsmanship—but it often feels overly artificial, lacking the unspoiled natural charm found here. Though smaller, Huma Riverside Park exudes a more genuine simplicity. Here, you’ll truly understand the serenity of “remaining unperturbed by fame or disgrace, watching flowers bloom and fade in the courtyard; indifferent to comings and goings, calmly observing clouds drift across the sky”—a state of mind rarely experienced in modern, urban life. Perhaps this is why out-of-town visitors are so drawn to this park.

Source: Huma County Party Committee and County Government